Recent content by yungman

They actually advertise G10 is more expensive, they have two different models almost the same, major difference is the cheap one uses Griv-Ex, the more expensive one use G10. I ask here because I cannot find anything that Griv-Ex is cheaper and not as good.

So they just very similar? Thanks

That's why I come and ask, sounds like the rigidness and toughness are close. What I cannot find is the difference when they age. G10 sounds to be quite immune to aging even under sunlight. Hows Griv-Ex. That I cannot find. Ultimate question is how long can Griv-Ex last compare to G10. Thanks

Hi I just want to know the difference between Griv-Ex and G10. How long can they last and what speed up the degradation? eg UV, heat etc. thanks

I finally get a chance to try this. I scraped both the surface of G10 and even the metal surface. IT WORKED. THANKS.

I have to get back to you. I open another one, feels like the epoxy doesn't even stick onto the steel that well, when I peel it, half stick on the steel, half on the G10 Now I question the epoxy whether it's too old or not good enough. It's less than 2yrs old. I'll be back.

But I did all the cleaning at the same time one piece after the other, why one pieces seems to glue tight, the other just literally fell off, like I just peel them apart. Same step cleaning one piece after another. I have to open up some one ones I did before and try to peel them apart, I have...

I am confused, I used epoxy for two different pieces of G10 to steel, I checked the other piece where I have loose epoxy in the surface of the G10, IT STUCK ON VERY STRONG, I cannot even scrape it off the surface of the G10. I tries to bend the G10 to separate it from the steel, it won't. That's...

I am going to try super glue and see. Thanks

That's what I am thinking, super glue. The dry epoxy has the surface pattern of the G10, meaning I can get a very close matching surface. One thing is the finish product might be bend slightly during use, I heard super glue is not good in lateral movement.

The surface of the G10 is rough already. I use lighter fluid(Ronson) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017X1NGO/?tag=pfamazon01-20 then use flux cleaner https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNQWV0/?tag=pfamazon01-20 The epoxy has no problem sticking strongly on the steel.

I just learned an expensive lesson that JB Weld do NOT work on G10 material. I tried to glue G10 to stainless steel, it just literally peel off. I cleaned the surface to get rid of all oil, I use lighter fluid, then use soldering flux removal to clean the surface very clean. I clamped them...

I guess the sure way to be safe is don't breath, don't touch.:biggrin::-p

I am still looking, this is what I saw on Google: "In fact, there are hundreds of chemicals on the California Prop 65 list—including things like nickel and chromium that have always been a part of knife steel. As a responsible manufacturer, we are including the warning as required by the law."

I have been looking at pocket knives, seems like all the ones with G10 handle scales have a warning about cancer. This is a very typical pocket knife. https://www.chicagoknifeworks.com/steel-will-cutjack-c22m-linerlock-od/ You see the cancer warning message? The rest of the knife is all...