Is My Samovar Really 110V or 220V? Decoding the Resistance of the Element

In summary, the element in the samovar is likely not a 220V element and would be damaged if used in a 220V outlet. The resistance of the element measured 12 ohms, which is indicative of a 110V element. The on/off switch is a "push button" style that only clicks on if the samovar is plugged in. There is no switch to select between voltage, so the samovar must be plugged into a 220V outlet to work.
  • #1
ER_Doc
4
1
Need some help please. Bought a Samovar (electric water pot) from overseas. Seller told me it is 110V compatible but the base plate not sp clearly says 110v/220V in Russian. Seller tells me that I should not use it in a 220V outlet but when plugged into a 110V it took 45 minutes to boil 8L of water. This is the result I expect if a 220V item is urged into 110v which means it operates st 25% power. So I don't know if Seller is just bluffing me or he is serious that the element is a 110V element which would then be damaged on a 220V outlet.

I disassembled the unit. The resistance measures about 12OHMS. Is this any indication that it is actually 220V and not 110V?

Help please. I'm not an electrician but more of a tinkerer.
 
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  • #2
Welcome to PF.

Assuming that the resistance of the element does not rise when it gets hot.
120 volt, 12 ohms → 10 amps → 1200 watt.
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.

Are you sure the element has only two terminals ?
If it had three or four, it could be wired for 120 V or 220 V.
 
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  • #3
Baluncore said:
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.
Even if the samovar can take it, the electrical installation at your home might not be able to take it. 16 Amps is common. I think appliances that go into a wall plug are never more than about 3kw, because it would be too easy for someone to blow a fuse.
 
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  • #4
Baluncore said:
Welcome to PF.

Assuming that the resistance of the element does not rise when it gets hot.
120 volt, 12 ohms → 10 amps → 1200 watt.
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.

Are you sure the element has only two terminals ?
If it had three or four, it could be wired for 120 V or 220 V.
Thank you for the reply. Only 2 prongs. I checked resistance without unsoldering the element from its wires. This should not affect the measurement should it? The on/off switch is a "push button" style that only clicks on if samovar is plugged in. So I believe circuit should be open during measurement of resistance across the element.
 
  • #5
ER_Doc said:
..the base plate not sp clearly says 110v/220V in Russian.
Could it be the device has a switch to select either voltage?

What is the meaning of "not sp"?
 
  • #6
Lnewqban said:
Could it be the device has a switch to select either voltage?

What is the meaning of "not sp"?
Sorry typo. That's what happens when you write messages in the middle of the night. I realized my bad spelling today. No switch unfortunately. Just one button which turns on boil mode then automatically flips to keep warm mode when water hits 100°C.
 
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  • #7
There should be a wattage or current specified.
Check the rating of the switch and the power plugs.
 
  • #8
20230223_100824.jpg


Here is the base plate and below is a Google translate from Russian. Not sure I necessarily believe the baseplate as the vendor is telling me he checked with the manufacturer and they told him this is a 110V element. But then why does it take 45 min to heat the water? Also....the google translation have to take with a grain of salt as well. Not sure it is 100% accurate.

Household electric samovar ESTZ 3.0/1.0-110/220 GOST 7400,

Model "Bank" voltage 220V 50g Power 1kB
 
  • #9
Deleted, misread.
 

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