Finding the velocity of a wave

In summary, the professor has seemingly fudged the steps from equation \ref{eq:surf_x-y} to equations \ref{eq:vel_u} and \ref{eq:vel_w} in order to make the mathematics work. I am struggling to come up with a physical justification for this, other than to say that it is somehow related to the phase speed of the wave.
  • #1
H Smith 94
Gold Member
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1
I am currently studying a course on waves, which has a real ambiguity in the lecture notes. Essentially, I don't know how the professor got from equation \ref{eq:surf_x-y} to equations \ref{eq:vel_u} and \ref{eq:vel_w}. I have tried to work backwards to find a method but am not sure of its validity.

Please note that this is not a homework excercise, so full answers are appreciated.

Given formulas
The step is from the surface height of a 1-dimensional wave, given by \begin{equation}\label{eq:surf_x-y}\eta(x,t) = A \cos(kx - \omega t)\end{equation} to a velocity field $$\mathbf{v}(x,z,t) = (u(x,z,t),w(x,z,t)),$$ where \begin{equation}\label{eq:vel_u}u(x,z,t) = A \omega \frac{\cosh(k(H+z))}{\sinh(k H)}\, \cos(kx - \omega t)\end{equation} and \begin{equation}\label{eq:vel_w}w(x,z,t) = A \omega \frac{\sinh(k(H+z))}{\sinh(k H)}\, \sin(kx - \omega t).\end{equation}

My workings
Given this as true, one finds a position function \begin{equation}\label{eq:pos_r}\phi(x,z,t) = \frac{A \omega}{k} \frac{\cosh(k(H+z))}{\sinh(k H)}\, \sin(kx - \omega t)\end{equation} from the integration $$\phi(x,z,t) = \int \mathbf{v}(x,z,t) \cdot\mathrm{d}\mathbf{r},$$ from which follows the assumption that we have multiplied equation \ref{eq:surf_x-y} by a ##z##-dependent factor $$f(z) = \frac{\omega}{k}\,\frac{\cosh(k(H+z))}{\sinh(k H)}.$$

'Fudged method'
Now, the only way I can see of getting from \ref{eq:pos_phi} to ##\phi(x,z,t)=\eta(x,t)\,f(z)## is using the following method, which finds that:

\begin{equation}\label{eq:vel_vec}\mathbf{v}(x,z,t) = \frac{1}{k}\,\frac{\partial}{\partial t}\,\nabla \phi(x,z,t) = \left(\begin{array}{c}\frac{\partial}{\partial t}\frac{\partial \phi}{\partial x} \\ \frac{\partial}{\partial t}\frac{\partial \phi}{\partial z}\end{array}\right).\end{equation}

Attempt at physical justification
I'm trying to justify this in physical terms by using the relation for phase speed ##c##, which states that ##c = \frac{\omega}{k}##, meaning we can infer from equation \ref{eq:vel_vec} that if $$\mathbf{v}(x,z,t) = \frac{\mathbf{\omega}}{k}$$ and so \begin{equation}\mathbf{\omega} = \frac{\partial}{\partial t}\,\nabla \phi(x,z,t).\end{equation}

I am taking this to mean we have a scalar function ##\phi(x,z,t)##, whose gradient gives the position ##\mathbf{r}(x,y,t)=(r_x(t),r_y(t))## of particles in the wave, meaning its rate of change would give us the velocity in the respective directions. If this is true, what is the physical meaning of ##\phi##?
 
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  • #2
It may help to formulate the problem in more detail. Maybe the source, too.
If it's 1-D wave what is the role of z coordinate? Is it a transverse wave?
 
  • #3
nasu said:
It may help to formulate the problem in more detail. Maybe the source, too.
I didn't want to put people off with too long a post, but you're right, I should provide more information. The textbook is available for free online, and it's equations (1.01) and (1.10-11) that I'm having problems with.

nasu said:
If it's 1-D wave what is the role of z coordinate? Is it a transverse wave?
I don't understand either how the ##z## co-ordinate comes into play: my assumption was that ##\eta## represented vertcal surface height, which one would assume is the same as ##z##. I believe it has something to do with phase space?

It's a transverse wave, yes.

I'm going to ask for more information after the lecture today, so hopefully that'll clear things up.
 

Related to Finding the velocity of a wave

1. What is the formula for finding the velocity of a wave?

The formula for finding the velocity of a wave is v = λf, where v is the velocity, λ is the wavelength, and f is the frequency.

2. How do you measure the wavelength of a wave?

The wavelength of a wave can be measured by measuring the distance between two consecutive points on the wave that are in phase, such as the crest or trough.

3. How does the medium affect the velocity of a wave?

The medium through which a wave travels can affect its velocity. In general, the denser the medium, the slower the wave will travel. For example, sound waves travel faster in solids than in liquids or gases.

4. Can the velocity of a wave change?

Yes, the velocity of a wave can change depending on the properties of the medium it is traveling through. For example, the velocity of light changes when it travels from air to water.

5. What units are used to measure the velocity of a wave?

The velocity of a wave is typically measured in meters per second (m/s) in the SI system. In other systems, it may be measured in feet per second (ft/s) or miles per hour (mph).

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